Manimahesh Yatra - October, 2013

MANIMAHESH KAILASH TREK 
( 1-6 OCTOBER, 2013)

II OM NAMAH SHIVAYE II

II ॐ नमः शिवाये II 

Ever since I had come to know of the existence of five 'Kailash' on earth and four of these within India, the desire to visit each of these holy lands, dominated my bucket list.   'Kailash', literally is the combination of two words 'Kai' meaning 'soul' and 'Lash' signifies 'a dance form'.  Hence, to a religious and devout, 'Kailash' would actually mean the abode of Lord Shiva, where he sits in a state of perpetual meditation alongwith his consort Parvat.  The literal meaning is more general and universal, one which signifies a place where the 'soul' seems to rejoice and exult in a state of ultimate bliss.  

Panch Kailash -

Mount Kailash, Tibet Autonomous Region, China

Manimahesh Kailash, District Chamba, Himachal Pradesh

Adi Kailash, District Pithoragarh, Uttrakhand, India

Kinnaur Kailash, District Kinnaur, Himachal Pradesh, India 

Srikhand Kailash, District Kullu, Himachal Pradesh, India

Manimahesh Kailash :  

Manimahesh Lake (also known as Dal Lake, Manimahesh) is a high altitude lake (elevation 4,080 metres (13,390 ft)) situated close to the Manimahesh Kailash peak in the Pir Panjal Range of the Himalayas, in the Bharmour subdivision of Chamba District of Himachal Pradesh. The religious significance of this lake is next to that of the Lake Manasarovar in Tibet.

The lake is the venue of a highly revered pilgrimage trek undertaken during the month of August/September corresponding to the month of Bhadon according to Hindu Calendar, on the eighth day of the New Moon period. It is known as the ‘Manimahesh Yatra’. The Government of Himachal Pradesh has declared it as a state-level pilgrimage.

Legend :

According to one popular legend, it is believed that Lord Shiva created Manimahesh after he married Goddess Parvati, who is worshipped as Mata Girja. There are many legends narrated linking Lord Shiva and his show of displeasure through acts of avalanches and blizzards that occur in the region.

Legend also mentions that Shiva performed penance on the banks of Manimahesh Lake. In the same vein, it is mentioned that Gaddis, the tribes of this region, adopted Lord Shiva as their deity. Gaddis are the people who reside in the Gaddi Valley which is the name of the upper regions of Ravi River where the Mount Chamba Kailash lies. Further, according to the legend, the Shiva, who lived in Mount Kailash, the highest mountain of the state, gifted the Gaddis with a Chuhali topi (pointed cap), which they wear traditionally along with their other dress of chola (coat) and dora (a long black cord about 10–15 m long). The Gaddis started calling the land of this mountainous region as 'Shiv Bhumi' ("Land of Shiva") and themselves as devotees of Shiva. The legend further states that before Shiva married Parvati at Mansarovar Lake and became the “universal parents of the universe”, Shiva created the Mount Kailash in Himachal Pradesh and made it his abode. He made Gaddis his devotees. The land where Gaddis lived extended from 15 miles (24 km) west of Bharmaur, upstream of the confluence of Budhil and Ravi rivers, up to Manimahesh. Manimahesh was also considered the abode of the three Lords of the universe namely, Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma. Manimahesh was reckoned as the heaven (Kaliasa) of Lord Shiva. The waterfall seen at the Dhancho on the way to Manimahesh Lake, and which emanates from the lake, was considered as the heaven (Vaikunta) of Vishnu. The heaven of Bramha is cited as a mound overlooking the Bharmaur town. The Gaddis also believe that Shiva resides in the Mount Kailash for six months, whereafter he moves to the netherworld handing over the reigns to Lord Vishnu. The day he departs to the netherworld is observed by the Gaddis reverentially every year, which is the Janmashtami day, the eighth day of the month of Bhadon (August), the birthday of Lord Krishna (an incarnation of Lord Vishnu). Shiva returned from the netherworld to Bharamour at the end of February, before the night of his wedding and this day is observed as the Shivratri day; Gaddis observe this also as a festive day since Shiva and Parvati returned to Mount Kailash in the Gaddi land.

Etymology of 'Manimahesh' signifies a "jewel (Mani) on Lord Shiva's (Mahesh's) crown". According to a local legend, the moon-rays reflected from the jewel can be seen from Manimahesh Lake on clear full moon night (which is a rare occasion). However, it has been inferred that such a phenomenon could be the result of reflection of light from the glacier that embellishes the peak in the form of a serpent around Shiva's neck.

A legend in which Lord Shiva himself is tricked is narrated. According to this narration linked to Dhancho where pilgrims spend a night on their way to Manimahesh Lake, Lord Shiva, pleased with the devotion of one his ardent devotee Bhasmasur (an asura or demon) bestowed a boon, which gave powers to Bhasmasur under which Bhasmasur touching any one would reduce that person in to ashes. Bhasmasur wanted to try this boon on Shiva himself. He, therefore, followed Shiva to touch him and get rid of him. However, Shiva managed to escape and enter into the waterfall at Dhancho and take shelter in a cave behind the rolling waters of the fall. Bhasmasur could not get through the waterfall. Then, Lord Vishnu intervened and killed Bhasamasur. Since then the fall is considered holy.

A rare event of the first sun’s rays falling on the Mani Mahesh peak is seen in reflection in the lake like saffron tilak. This display in the lake has enhanced the legendary belief of the Gaddis on the sanctity of Manimahesh Lake at the base of the Mount Kailash, which they visit on an annual pilgrimage. This event has also contributed to the practice of taking bath in the lake on Janmashtami day or Radhashtami day, fifteen days after the birth of Lord Krishna.

Geography :

Manimahesh could be approached from three routes. Pilgrims from Lahaul and Spiti pass through Kugti pass. Pilgrims from Kangra and Manditake the Karwarsi pass or Jalsu pass via Tyari village, near Holi in Bharmour. The easiest and popular route is from Chamba via Bharmour. The most popular is the Bharmour–Hadsar-Manimahesh route, which involves a 13 kilometres track from Hadsar village to the Manimahesh Lake. The highest altitude touched in this route is 4,115 metres (13,501 ft) and it takes two days with an overnight stay at Dhancho. Season to be undertaken is June to October and it has a gentle grade. The path leading to the lake is well maintained.

How we got there :

My friend Veeren Kamat called me to check whether I would be interested in accompanying him on a pilgrimage to Manaimahesh.  The window he offered me wasn't acceptable to me due to preoccupations, hence it was decided to utilize the next available window date between 1st October and 6th October, 2013. Veeren also informed that the yatra season got over recently commencing on Janamashtami and concluding on Radhashtami and hence all the paraphernalia viz. temporary accommodation, shops, community kitchens and medical support etc. would have now withdrawn.  As I saw this, it appeared to me a pretty dicey affair, with no support in an unfamiliar land.  With certain amount of concern, I said 'YES' to my friend making mental notes on how to proceed on a journey which appears far more challenging in the face of far too less or the absence of resources required enroute.  I immediately made some frantic inquiries from a few friends who either have already visited Manimahesh in the past or would refer me to those who would have visited recently.  The fact of the matter that no one encouraged us to proceed for the yatra during the period we had earmarked owing to several reasons viz.  
i.    inclement weather conditions, 
ii.   accumulation of snow in higher reaches,     
iii.  Absence of infrastructure and physical support (since temporary arrangements are made by religious groups and state government during the annual fair between Janamashtami and Radhashtami)
iv.  Unpopular during the off-season, hence no pilgrim progress.

Carrying the burden of such apparent concerns and fears, we decided to approach people in the business for support.  I spoke to Atul Thakur, proprietor of Hotel Bharmour View, Bharmour, who readily offered us a package, as per following detals :-


Duration of the Trek : 04 Days / 03 Nights

Destinations : Bharmour – Bharmani Mata Temple- Hadsar - Dancho - Gaurikund -Manimahesh Lake -Bharmour - Bharmour

Highest Point of the Trek : 4115 m.Class : ModeratePackage Cost : Rs. 6000 per person (Minimum 2 Persons). Manimahesh Yatra Trek package September-October is available between 15th September 2013 and 15th October

Day 1 : Bharmour – Chaurasi Temple

Arrive at Bharmour and check in the hotel. At evening visit famous historical Chaurasi Temple of Bharmour. Dinner and overnight stay in Bharmour view hotel.

Day 2 : Bharmour – Bharmani Mata Temple – Bharmour -Hadsar – Dhancho
Early in the morning visit Bharmani Mata Temple which is 6 km by taxi and back to hotel. Bharmani Mata temple is mainly known for Goddess Bharmani Mata. According to a local legend and people believe that the Bharmour was called Brahmpura after Bharmani Devi. When Lord Shiva went to Manimahesh Kailash granted a boon to goddess Bharmani Devi that all persons intending to go on pilgrimage to Manimahesh must have a dip in their holy pool.  After breakfast Check out and start journey towards Hadsar by taxi which is 13 km from Bharmour. Hadsar is the starting point of Manimahesh Trek. Trek to Dhancho. It takes around 4 hours to reach our first camp site at Dancho. Hadsar  to Dhancho is 6 km by trek. Overnight in Tents.

Day 3 : Dhancho – Manimahesh – Hudsar – Bharmour
After refreshing and breakfast, start towards Gauri kund and then to Manimahesh lake. After Darshan of holy Manimahesh Kailash Lake retrun to Bharmour by Same Route and overnight in pre booked hotel Bharmour view.

Day 4 : Departure from Bharmour after Breakfast.

Cost of tour package for Manimahesh Yatra trek September-October (Prices/person)

2-3 Persons	4-7 Persons	8-10 Persons	Extra Person
Rs. 6000	Rs. 5000	Rs. 4500	Rs. 4000

Manimahesh Yatra trek September-October Package cost includes:

Accommodation in Hotels on double sharing Basis.
All meal on MAP basis (Breakfast and Dinner) during stay in Hotel
Transportation by Taxi.
Tour guide with basic first aid kit.
Personal porter will be available on extra charges.

Contact to Book Your Manimahesh Yatra Trek in September and October Package 2013

Amit Thakur 

Main Bazar Bharmour, Distt. Chamba, Himachal Pradesh  Pin 176315

Email :  info@bharmourview.com
mobile no. 09816498140, 09816454001



We booked our trek  :

Following extensive deliberations and on mutually accepted terms and conditions, we struck a deal of Rs. 4500/- each and booked the Bharmour-Manimahesh-Bharmour package with Hotel Bharmour View.


Planning & Preparations for the Manimahesh Yatra :

We were aware of the intricacies involved in the preparation for the yatra on the basis of our experiences with the earlier Kailash Manasarovar Yatra and the Roopkund Trek.  Having said that, we were also conscious of the fact that each outing in the hills and especially involving high altitudes, must be accorded due attention to details specific to the region, terrain, prevailing climatic conditions, existence of infrastructure or the lack of it, administrative support, local support etc.  

Now that we had interacted with Atul Thakur of Hotel Bharmour View and booked the trek from Bharmour to Bharmour, we were relieved of the finer aspect of the local support and to a larger extent, infrastructural support most importantly in the higher reaches.  

A suggested check list of articles follow :  

1. Wind-proof jacket  -  1 no.

2. Sweaters  -  1 full sleeve

3. Sweaters  - 1 half sleeve

4. Balaclava (Monkey cap) - 1 no.

5. Woollen / leather gloves - 1 pair each.

6.Woollen socks  - 2 pairs

7. Cotton socks - 2 pairs

8. Jeans/ Trekking Pants - 2 nos.

9. Full sleeve Shirts/T-shirt - 3 nos.

10. Sun Glasses (UV protection), with chain for hanging around neck - 1 no.

11. Hunter/Trekking shoes - 1 pair

12. Peaked cap or broad brimmed straw hat (for protection against the sun) - 1 no.

13. Water bottle (large) - 1 no.

14. Torch light - 1 no. (preferably a head lamp for easy mobility and ease of use)

15. Raincoat (large size) - 1 no. (Poncho is also available in market, look for ut)

16. Belt pouch for camera/money/medicines - 1 no.

17. Large Plastic sheet for water proofing your luggage - 1 no.

18. Toilet paper

19. Sun screen lotion (for protection from sunburn) 30 SPF - 1 no.

20. Candle / Matchstick / Pooja material

21. Multipurpose knife - 1 no.

22. Rubber slippers - 1 no.

23. Walking stick - 1 no.

Day 1

Travel from New Delhi to Pathankot (Distance : 515 kms.)

We preferred to travel by train to Pathankot simply owing to convenience a rail journey offers.  Although there are several options available on the Delhi-Pathankot section, we chose to travel by 12245 Uttar Sampark Kranti, which left New Delhi Railway Station at 2050 hrs on 1 October, 2013 and reached our destination Pathankot  at 0420 hrs on 2 October, 2013. 

Day 2

Pathankot - Bharmour (Distance : 180 kms)

We had planned to travel on this section, preferably by local buses, just to explore the varied culture in the remote interiors of Himachal Pradesh and utilize this opportunity to interact with the local folks.  We stepped out of the sleepy Chakki Bank (Pathankot) Railway Station and found ourselves in the cacophony of sounds of auto rickshaw walas and Vikram walas hailing prospective passengers.  We too boarded a shared auto destined for Pathankot Bus Stand at Rs. 20 per passenger.  No sooner had we settled in the auto, a cab driver approached us and inquired about the destination we were headed to.  He offered to take us to Chamba (distance from Pathankot : 120 kms) for Rs. 3500.  Observing our hesitation, he brought the amount down to Rs. 3000.  Initially, we shrugged but promptly asked him to charge Rs.3000 for Bharmour.  He pondered for a while and finally agreed, albeit cribbing for the grand 'discount' he was yielding.  We frantically disembarked from the auto tearing other passengers who were getting into, much to their dismay and to the cursing driver of the auto, who disliked the prospects of waiting for another three passengers to be able to move on.  Our mental calculators were working full on inspite of the lack of sleep having awoke earlier than usual.  The prospect of saving precious time in commuting and the flexibility, the cab service offered was joyful.  And all this at a cost to individual : Rs. 1000 was like icing on the cake.   Our cab Maruti Suzuki Alto driven by Mr. Amit left Pathankot at about 0515 hrs.  We were earlier told by Atul Thakur that the bus journey from Pathankot to Bharmour via Chamba would take more than 9-10 hrs subject to availability of connecting buses.  Ordinarily, we would have reached Bharmour by 6-7 PM in the evening.  The taxi was expected to provide a comfortable ride and reach our destination of the day within a maximum time of 6 hours, which was a clear saving of 3-4 hours.   

It was still dark when we had left Pathankot and crossed Mamun Air Force Station at the break of the morning twilight.  Our cab driver appeared cautious and to certain extent, confused, over the route he was following.  I felt he was a wee bit tired, which he denied when inquired.  I offered to help him in driving, taking turns, in case he was worn out, but he politely turned down the offer.  Breaking of dawn in hills is an extremely enriching experience and if you are travelling, the scope of landscape and visual perspective change every minute and after each bend or curve, you traverse.  

First captivating view :

   Chamera Dam Lake

It was past 7.30 AM,  when we had crossed Dalhousie and our cab driver Amit promised us a good place to break our fast.  The next halt point was supposed to be 'Rakh', a sub-division of District Chamba.  The wide highway had now narrowed into a alley, which appeared congested due to heavy commercial activity on either end of the road.  We settled into a small dhaba and ordered Aloo Puri and Chai.  Meanwhile, I ventured out to ease myself.  To my utter astonishment and disbelief, I found a newly constructed building, barely a few meters away from the hustle bustle of this small town.  This had to be the PWD Rest House, I later found out.  I was captivated by the stillness of the moment, the lush green hill stood like a guard providing a perfect backdrop for a place meant to provide relaxation to the weary officers of the PWD after a hard day's work in the trying working environment of the mountains.  I could not leave without being mesmerized by the beauty and peacefulness of this small pad and promised myself, a holiday at the PWD Rest House, Rakh, whenever next opportunity to be in this region arrives.  

PWD Rest House, Rakh  

PWD Rest House, Rakh, District Chamba

Post a hurried breakfast which acted like fuel to our tired limbs, we had again hit the road for our destination, Bharmour.  It was past 09.00 AM now and even the most weird of calculation suggested that we should be arriving at Bharmour, anytime between 1130 - 1200 PM.  Our driver, Amit had different reasons to deny us the momentary pleasure of arriving at Bharmour early and commence our trek to Dhancho, the same afternoon.  We consulted each other and finally decided to speak to Mr. Atul Thakur (our pointsman in Bharmour) to explore the option of despatching our group to Dhancho, the same day.  There were plenty of issues, the guide had been booked for the next morning, the weather in the higher reaches was unpredictable, we would be required to trek in the darkness which was not recommended.  On our insistence, Mr. Thakur agreed to alter plans for our departure to Dhancho immediately after our arrival at Hotel Bharmour View.  We were glad that we would actually be dividing our stress to three days than from the earlier plan, which encompassed the entire trek, uphill and downhill, within two days.  To us city folks, this also meant to be spending an additional night out in the wilderness.  The stage had been set for the trek to Dhancho. The state was one of exhilaration, jubilation and exaltation.  

We arrived at Hotel Bharmour View a little over 12.30 PM.  The hotel staff was there to receive us and arranged a panicky check-in.  We did not even care about the quality of rooms or the inclusions. Took a quick shower and ordered lunch.  The plan was to visit Bharmani Mata Temple, the legend has it that a dip in the pool in the temple complex is considered mandatory for completion of the Manimahesh yatra.  The temple is accessible on foot through a well laid out track (3 kms from Bharmour town) or in a cab (4 kms.) through a rough, narrow and steep unmetalled paved road.  The path was unarguably dangerous, the bends were frightening.  This wasn't the job for the ordinary, driving or being driven. And justifiably in the interest of safety, outstation drivers do not tread this path leaving the domain for the experienced cabbies of Bharmour.   We heaved a sigh of relief reaching Bharmani Mata Temple safely, under the protective blanket of 'Maa'.  

 Eagle Eye View of Bharmour town (Enroute Bharmani Mata Temple) :

Bharmani Mata Temple : 

     Bharmani Mata temple complex is at the top of the ridge covered with full of pine and deodar trees situated 4 km away from Bharmour. The place is mainly known for Goddess Bharmani Mata, one of the avatars of Durga Maa. Bharmani Devi is the patron Goddess of people of Bharmour. There is Bharmani holy pool in front of Bharmani Mata temple. The dip in the pool is compulsory to complete the holy Manimahesh Yatra. It is believed that Goddess Bharmani had stolen this holy water from Lord Sandhola Naag, which is located on another side of the ridge.     Seven water streams are coming from the bottom of cave, which are presently serving water supply facility to Bharmour and running many flourmills. The place is mountainous with aesthetic natural beauty and gives glorious view of beautiful Bharmour.

Darshan at Bharmani Mata - Onward journey to Hadsar (15 kms from Bharmour by road)

Paying our sincere obeisance to the patron Goddess of the region, we hurriedly retreated to the hotel, where the lunch was ready.  Who was interested in food, were we? Nay.  But, its perfectly sane to eat in mountains, hungry or not.  

Our guide 'Pappu', a native of Hadsar, a laid back hamlet, good 15 kms away from Bharmour appeared friendly, conversant with his job and a die hard optimistic.  Co-incidently, Pappu Guide owned a Maruti Suzuki 800 car, which had successfully traversed our journey to Bharmani Mata Temple and back.  Pappu helped us organize the final pack up and at about 3.30 PM, we had left Bharmour on way to Hadsar, the base for Manimahesh yatra. 

It isn't common to find any pilgrim activity in Bharmour or Hadsar during late September or October, as the official Manimahesh yatra is long over.  The sleepy towns do wake up to hustle and bustle of lakhs of pilgrims, who make a beeline in the region on their way to Manimahesh lake during the annual yatra.  We witnessed a completely different picture, one of solitude and peace, perhaps Gods had read our mind and planned our journey this way.   Our tête-à-tête with Him, the Lord of the Manimahesh Kailash, had to be private and exclusive, so was destined.  

Hadsar - Dhancho (6 kms on foot) Elevation : Hadsar - 2280 meters.

At exactly 15 minutes past 4 PM, we started our trek upwards Hadsar to the destination of the day, Dhancho.  

 Gateway to Manimahesh Lake, Hadsar

Lord Hanuman temple, the last permanent structure at Hadsar on way to Manimahesh Lake

We got along the track which after a few meters up, appeared to be steep.  500 meters later, we found ourselves panting for breath.  It was natural to experience breathlessness, as walking in hills is much different than even the brisk walk in the plains.  Our target was 6 kms before the darkness of the night enveloped three souls gently moving their way up.  The steepness of gradient grew further and we concluded this to be a fairly easy to moderate climb.  We were quite focussed to achieve our goal which was to cover the maximum distance before it grew dark, aware of the fact that some portion of the track would surely be traversed in the darkness of the forest.  A gentle stream flowing down kept us in good spirit and cool vibes generating in the atmosphere allayed all our fears.  It was past 6.30 PM and it turned out to be pitch dark, Amawasya (New Moon) just two days away, the 4th October, 2013.   With just one torch to aid us, some difficulty was faced, although it was manageable.  The only hassle was to keep track of numerous stones on the path which kept us on toes, literally.   Around 7.15 PM,  our guide Pappu had identified the campsite and exchanged torch light beams with the caretaker of the Dhancho camp.  Our struggle now appeared to be weaning away with hope of a cosy night halt.  Our hunger pangs were looking up too.  Finally, at 7.30 PM, we had entered Dhancho camp.  What a relief it was to be there.  Our place for night halt would be a shop-cum-night shelter built over plinths of stones and covered with good quality canvas tents and fortified with sturdy polythene sheets.  "Pappu Da Dhaba & Restaurant", we were told, was owned by our friendly guide Pappu and run by a caretaker, also from Hadsar, Pappu's native village.

Pappu Da Dhaba is the only commercial multi-purpose establishment helping pilgrims with provisions of daily use, food on demand and a relatively cosy night shelter.  We were told that this shop would continue to function till Deepawali, after which even the receded pilgrim activity comes to a grinding halt owing to accumulation of snow at higher reaches.  We wanted to hydrate our systems crying for some instant energy and asked for soup.  The caretaker did not have any stocks left, so we had to forego this genuine request of ours and settle for a cup of tea followed by dinner consisting of humble daal, rice and some Aloo Bhaji (leftover of afternoon, the caretaker had been honest).  The tea was piping hot and good. Knowing their penchant for extra sweetened tea in hills and in rural areas, we had specifically asked for sugar less tea, ofcourse sugar was to be carried separately. This system we followed throughout our journey and believe me, enjoyed all our numerous cups of the holy beverage. Three weary souls in accommodation good enough for over 50-60 people was a sure shot luxury.  With no dearth of blankets to pile on, we were assured of a good night's sleep in the cosy comfort of our night shelter at Dhancho.  The next day's plan was to wake up at 6 AM and leave for Manimahesh Lake at 7:30 or max 8.00 AM.  The idea was to leave reasonably early and reach early to avoid discomforts on account of inclement weather formation.  In those hills of Himachal, rains are unpredictable and usually, they show up around late noon.  

Day 3

The cellphone alarms were replaced today with the pleasant chirping of birds outside the Dhancho camp.  We had left our phones in the hotel at Bharmour knowing well that the areas ahead of Hadsar would be outside the coverage area of cell phone networks.  Bed tea had arrived and it was refreshing too.  I reached out to my camera and ventured out of the camp for 'bird watching'.  The view outside was mesmerizing, the stillness of air occasionally broken by the chirping of birds.  

By the time we were back in our camp after morning routine, the breakfast was ready.  Now, closer to a month since we returned, the texture and the taste of Aloo Paranthas served at Dhancho's Pappu Da Dhaba still lingers.  How ironical to refuse extra helpings while the heart wanted more.  We had miles to leap before we reach our next destination and we were prepared for a tougher climb today.  

Dhancho - Manimahesh Lake (7 kms, Category : Steep and Difficult)

At exactly 8 AM, we left Dhancho camp.  Our guide Pappu asked us to leave early and that he would join us later.  Contrary to what had been read all over the blogs on Manimahesh yatra and sound advice of our friends, our guide wanted us to take the route via 'Bandar Ghati', once dreaded by pilgrims for the sheer hardships this route presented.  I checked again, but Pappu had made his mind and we had no choices.  He assured that the erstwhile hard track is now relatively easier with some restructuring done recently and track properly paved.  The idea of saving of over 1 km distance in comparison to the popular route was an absolute give away.  We were on, without any doubt now.

The entire route to Manimahesh Lake is extremely steep and puts the resilience and faith of pilgrims to ultimate test.  Enroute, we met five pilgrims returning from Manimahesh and inquired about the conditions up there.  They were enthused by their experiences and their feedback gave us reasons to cheer.  The only concern was to cover maximum distance to be able to escape the vagaries of nature.  It would rain around 1 PM and could continue till 4, we were warned and thence the compulsion to hurry up and increase pace.  The pace won't, the steepness hadn't.  We had now made mental notes on the prospects of facing the harshness of rains, we were running out of choices.  There was no way we could manage to reach even Gaurikund, 1.5 kms short of Manimahesh by 1 PM.  At 12.30 PM, we were atleast 2.5 kms away from Gaurikund and the flag posts indicative of the location still appeared to be as distant as stars on a clear sky. 

 Tired we would be, the spirits soared at the sight of some of the most splendid views enroute.  

Shiv Ki Gharad

The legend has it that a grinding mill runs within a rock formation.  And it actually appears so from the whizzing sound that consistently resonates around the rock.  Land of miracles, one would admit.  

"Om Namah Shivaye", the maha mantra chant within kept energizing the plummeting spirits.  With each step, the level of difficulty would increase manifold.  Even the air appeared to be thinning as altitude gained, compounding our discomfort.  Prayers in mind, we kept our pace wishing it doesn't rain today, atleast not until we had reached Manimahesh camp.  We were aware we were asking for the moon.  Only if wishes were horses, one would say.  Faith and fortune could bear miracles, create situations extraordinaire.  At close to 2:15 PM., we baby stepped to reach Gaurikund.  

Gaurikund, dry and parched

So far, it had been good with no major concerns.  Perhaps, the fears instilled during our preparation phase had contributed to fear of the unknown dangers and consequent fatigue.  I somehow realized that the mental strain dominated the physical weariness.  In the past, we had climbed higher altitudes and the spirits never sagged.  I had read blogs warning about innumerable glaciers, the challenges of negotiating Bandar Ghati and extremely inhospitable climate at areas around Gauri Kund and further up at Manimahesh Lake.  We were clueless whether it was coincidental or destined but God's magnanimity could ever be so generous.  All our fears now allayed, we were barely 1.7 Kms away from our destination for today. Keeping fingers crossed and with prayers in mind, we resumed our journey after a refreshing cup of hot tea served with Biscuits at a small shack, 50 metres ahead of Gaurikund.  The presence of a familiar face 'Pappu', our trustworthy guide alongside, had ensured great care and warmth.   The dreaded rainfall or snow had still eluded us, although consistent cloud cover over the Manimahesh mountain and adjacent mountain range raised a reason for some concern, not much on account of the impending rain this trend indicated, but 'disappointment' as the indefinite cloud cover hampered the view of the great mountain, we had so intently planned a visit to.  Although, in hearts of heart, my firm belief in the power of prayer had only grown firmer.  After all, our Lord of the Kailash is not known to elude darshan to His ardent followers.  We also trusted His discretion and respected His will.  He who rules the world, keeps account of all our karmas and shows us the path of righteousness, would never let his seekers down.  I was kind of OK with that situation, coming this far was only through his divine grace and we had no reasons to be disillusioned or regretful.  Deeply meditative, we were inching towards Manimahesh Lake.  We had finally reached the lake at 4:15 PM.  Jubilant and elated.  I thanked His divine grace, numerous times. We had made it, safely.  One of the dream had been realized just then.  Setting our footsteps on the holy soil, the soul experienced such innate calm and peace, deep within.   

    

Some shots of Manimahesh Lake..(Altitude : 4080 meters / 13390 ft)

It appeared that the cloud cover over Mount Manimahesh wouldn't relent.  After settling our rucksack into the tent accommodation, owned by an associate of 'Pappu' Guide and gulping piping hot Maggi noodles, we ventured out of our tent.  It was close to 6:30 PM and time for the evening Arti.  We managed to get some puja material from the lone 'departmental store' managed by a disciple of a religious sect.  Our prayers, straight from the heart, wouldn't be unanswered, so we believed.  The Gods would show up, the confidence and resolve was firm. Even if not, we were content.  Dark clouds had come to stay, apparently.  The cover did not lift that evening, our transfixed gaze into infinity notwithstanding.  Darkness enveloped the entire hamlet and we decided to retire into our pad.  The accommodation was as good as the one at Dhancho and our experience, the previous night had assured us of another comfortable night sleep at Manimahesh Lake Camp, the rigours of higher altitude notwithstanding.   The dinner was served at 7:30 PM at our request, although it was initially planned for 7 PM.  For us city bred and spoilt to the hilt, it was unimaginable to settle for supper at this early hour.   'Khichri" was the only item on the menu and we weren't complaining.  It arrived hot and steaming and looked nicely cooked with generous dash of green chillies and chunks of potatoes to add value and flavour to the fare.   For travellers originating from plains, staying at high altitude, anywhere above 8000 feet or 2400 meters ASL  could be sickening with one or multiple ailments.  Indigestion, Fever,  Light headedness,  lack of appetite, nausea, difficulty in sleep, headache etc. (curable with medicines and/or rest) besides the more severe and complex disease called Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) requiring specialized and duly supervised treatment involving urgency of action and medical equipment.   We fed ourselves to avoid any such risk, though not particularly hungry.  We had committed to wake up as early as 3 AM the next morning to be able to catch a glimpse of divine phenomena called 'Mani' of jewel, which reflects on the surface of the Mt. Manimahesh, hence the name.  We had rested our belief on the many tales heard prior to our journey and during its course of the appearance of 'mani' and therefore, willingly opted to skip some sleep and wake up early to witness the celestial wonder.  Anxiety and stuffiness due to innumerable layers of woolen blankets did not allow us a comfortable sleep the whole night.  Although, the feeling of exclusivity was captivating. All in all, we were just eight mortals residing on this faraway holy land, that starry-starry night.  Only three pilgrims, four others including Pappu Guide, the caretaker of the night shelter, the manager of the store and a middle-aged couple, who were his associates.  Apart from these four who would reside there only till Deepawali and then retreat to the foothills, there was the fifth soul, the revered "Barfani Baba", this devout from Nepal has been staying at Manimahesh ever since 2003 continuously in the face of such grave hardships like 40-50 ft of snow and loneliness... Wonder how much he and his Lord would be in conversation, while the rest of the world keep waiting for the weather to clear up and make way for their pilgrimage.  But then, Faith could move mountains.  Such grit and determination is found rare and this undiluted passion of Barfani Baba towards his Lord instill faith in extraordinary spiritual powers.

   

Bowing in reverence to Barfani Baba

Even if our long wait under a blanket of stars to witness the spectacle did not bear any fruit, the all-clear Mt. Manimahesh Kailash brought us reasons to cheer.   While we rolled under the layers of blankets struggling to catch up with some sleep, the cloud cover had receded.  The holy mountain seemed to be shining in its own glory and the intermittent lightening flashes from across the horizon towards Hadsar intensified its divinity, every now and then.  Shooting stars were creating magic all over.  Even if no 'mani' was sighted, we were more than contented with the fare on offer.   For more than two hours, our eyes feasted on one spectacle to another.  This had to be mentally recorded as once-in-a-lifetime experience.  Never before we had felt the need or experienced what goes around when the whole world is fast asleep.  This was an experience extraordinaire`.   The outside temperature was pretty low, but not severe.  Back into the coziness of our blankets, we did catch up some sleep before my eyes opened to find morning light appearing at the corners of our shelter.   It was 6 AM.

Day 4

OMG !!! Gotta wake up fast before the weather turns hostile.  Wish the Mt. Manimahesh reveal itself sans the dampening cloud cover.  The early mornings are clearer in the higher altitudes due to deep penetration of sun's energy when it rises.  I should be the last person to miss this opportunity, after all a little more sleep would not make any difference to the tired limbs.  I sprang out of the comfort of my bed and rushed outside.  Our prayers had been heard and the Lord's benevolence was in full exhibition.  The magnificent sight of Mt. Manimahesh standing tall, so distinctive and completely divine.  Lord Shiva, Devon ke Dev's abode ought to be grand and awe-inspiring.  Eyes were transfixed, heart pouring out and the entire body seemed to be weightless.  The rising sun appearing from the rear of the Mt. Manimahesh added to its majestic value.  The holy mountain seemed to be absorbed in the mirror image produced on the sheet of still waters of Manimahesh Lake.  With every passing moment, the landscape changed dramatically.  "Om Nameh Shivaye", the chant grew louder and louder, pulsating within and now more vocal.  How thankful we were to the Lord for allowing us such splendid interface.  Such is the power of the prayer, we had realized and now our conviction being reinforced several notches up.  Here are some snapshots.

  
This is exactly why we had come all the way and our joy knew no bounds by the mesmerizing views served on a platter.  After a quick dip in the freezing waters of Manimahesh Lake, we offered puja to the presiding deity of the region, Lord Shiva.  Our experiences  at Manimahesh Lake could be indescribable in words or expressions.  It almost felt like a piece of heaven where our souls floated in gay abandon.  Throughout our stay at this extremely pious place, there was this unique and contradictory feeling of nothingness and completeness.  Nothing else mattered.  It was me and my Lord and He could be felt everywhere.  I would feel His protective layer all around and felt so pampered.  All aspirations, ambitions, hopes, dreams, desires seemed to have reached their logical conclusion, the soul was content.  

Return to the Basics   

It was 9 AM, when we commenced our return trek to the base.  But not before paying our obeisance and respect to the Barfani Baba inside his dimly lit but cosy hutment.  We were curious to know how this man of nerves of steel and rare grit looked like.  What he does to survive in extremely inhospitable climatic conditions.  What makes him tick.  It was a divine and very holistic experience interacting with him and accepting his warm hospitality.  He appeared to be calm and at complete peace with himself.  An Uber cool guy, I thought.  

Our return trek had to be completely down slide and we expected to hit the base, Hadsar in close to 6 hours.  It would be a cakewalk, we had whispered into our mind.  Were we wrong in our assumption and judgement ?? 100 % yes.  The return to Gauri kund was relative and easy, the later part till Dhancho was exhausting.  Stony path, unrelenting sun and the challenge of maintaining equilibrium made for a equally tough climbdown.  The consistent cool breeze passing through the wading waters alongside the track provided succour to the body and soul.  The mind was left way behind, in the divinity of Manimahesh Lake. 

Gauri Temple at Gauri Kund (Manimahesh Kailash providing perfect backdrop)

Much contrary to our estimate, we managed to reach Dhancho at 1 PM against 11:30 AM, speaks so much of the hardship faced during the descent.  Pappu, the Guide had overtaken us ahead of 'Shiv ki Gharar' and by the time, we had reached Dhancho camp, got the lunch prepared.  We had requested repeat of the Aloo Paranthas menu, so much we had fallen in love with the Paranthas of Pappu Da Dhaba.  The Paranthas were served hot accompanied with pickle and masala tea.  We gorged on the fare with passion and realizing how these perfectly fried paranthas would be cherished long after we had merged into the humdrum of our city life. Thanking the caretaker for the care and services, we left Dhancho camp at 1:45 PM setting a new target of hitting Hadsar in 2 hours flat, considering that the ascent took 3 hours and 45 minutes.   We were to be proved wrong yet again, it appeared.  The descent was steeper and slippery, stones giving away.  However, the enthusiasm to reach Hadsar and touch the humanity grew larger and infused some amount of energy.  For the entire day of the trek since that morning, except for the caretaker at Dhancho camp, we had not seen or met any human being.  We actually did not care.  The chirping birds in innumerable numbers constantly enthralled us.  A mountain dog faithfully provided us protection against unknown dangers during the up and down journey.  What more could we ask for.  It was going to be one unique experience in itself and potent enough to be remembered for a long long time to come.  The Hanuman temple situated at the entrance of the trek route at Hadsar was now visible from a distance.  It was 3:15 PM and there was no way, we would meet our target.  Not that we cared to beat any one or create history.  Purely self gratification and self appraisal.  When we finally reached Hadsar, it was exactly 4 PM.  Pappu, the Guide had got his Maruti 800 readied by then.  A couple of village elders and women greeted us.  Thanking them for their care and not without feeding few packets of Glucose Biscuits to our escort (the pretty mountain dog), we drove out of Hadsar at 4:15 PM.  Bharmour was just a quarter of an hour's drive and the winding trail was leaving the original peace and tranquility far behind.   We reached Bharmour around 5 PM and checked into our hotel rooms.  Thanking our guide Pappu profusely for all the care and attention he provided and an assurance that he would drive us to Pathankot, the next morning in his trusted Maruti 800, we bid him goodbye for the evening.  Later, after a quick shower under the jet of warm water tweaking pain out of our muscles, we walked up to the famed 'Chaurasi Temple' complex.  

  

Chaurasi Temple, Bharmour 

Chaurasi Temple is located in the center of Bharmour town and it holds immense religious importance because of temples built around 1400 years ago. Life of people in Bharmour centres around the temple complex-Chaurasi, named so because of 84 shrines built in the periphery of Chaurasi Temple. Chaurasi is hindi word for number eighty four. The beautiful shikhara style temple of Manimahesh occupies the center of the complex. It is believed that when 84 Siddhas, who had come from Kurukshetra, were passing through Bharmour to visit Manimahesh, they fell in love with the calmness of Bharmour and reconciled to meditate here. Chaurasi Temple Complex was built approximately in 7th century, although repairs of many temples have been carried out in later period.

Day 5

As planned, we woke up at 4 AM on 5th October, 2013 and rushed up a quick shower.  The luxury of the bed tea wasn't expected in the wee hours and we chose to give it a miss.  By the time, we had finished packing, Pappu's Maruti 800 horn blared.  Dot at 5 AM., we had huddled into the compact Maruti 800 and drove out of the sleepy Bharmour town.  It was too early in the day for the locals to be seen on the roads.  Prayers in mind and reminiscing of innumerable experiences during our short yet hugely rewarding journey for the past 4 days, we kept driving following the sharp beam of the headlight of our cutie cab.  Halting briefly at Rakh for tea and snacks completed with a admiring visit to the PWD Rest House, we hit the trail once again.  Rising sun from across the mountain ranges was doing absolute magic to the landscape.  Activity seemed to be picking up in the many small village hamlets tucked far away on the face of the hills.   Traffic was sparse and hence the speeding Maruti faced no major opposition zooming past walkers and occasional light vehicles.  

After Chamba, Pappu decided to drive us via Chamba-Chowari Jot, an off the beaten track. Out of bounds for heavy vehicles, the narrow road meanders through a scintillating and breathtaking landscape. Jot, in local language, means 'mountain pass' and Chamba-Chowari Jot boasts of an altitude of 8000 feet.  Chowari jot is almost midway between Chamba and Chowari. As you cross this pass, you will see the gorgeous Khajjiar on one side and Kainthli Dhar-slopes bristling with Pine and Deodar trees. Quite startling to see.  Rhododendron trees all around us was a treat in itself. Taking this route proved to be one thrilling drive across impossibly narrow roads and the stomach clenching drops to the bottom!

Ahead of our estimated ETA, we reached Pathankot at 1130 hrs.  The return to Delhi was not planned in advance and therefore we decided to catch a State Government transport corporation bus from the Pathankot Bus Stand.  The first direct bus after 1200 PM was scheduled to depart at 12:45 hrs and we did not have any option that to board this one.  This journey, on expected lines, was endlessly painful.  Not due to the pulsating pains in the calf muscles, mainly due to the laid back driving of the Punjab Roadways driver.  It appeared as if he had made his mind to hit Delhi not before 1 AM in the midnight, a good 13 hours.  After having been blessed with such magnificent experiences, even the curses cease to tumble out. And nothing works better than resigning to one's fate and here, all of us passengers shared the similar agony. Finally, at 1 AM in the intervening night of 5-6 October, 2013, we reached the ISBT, Delhi.  

All in all, an unforgettable experience.  A subtle combination of divinity, religious fervour, adventure, travel and unbound beauty is what Manimahesh Kailash yatra is all about.  

II OM NAMAH SHIVAYE II